Westminster Abbey, Walks, and Whodunits: Last of London
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Our last of six days in London was meant to pack in the most important stops that we had yet to see. That even includes Westminster Abbey, notable because it was one of the first items added to our itinerary. But the day required much more than just going to church. We still had quite a few sights left to see!
So far, we’d visited several museums, had afternoon tea, enjoyed a tour with a yeoman warder at the Tower of London, birded through a couple Royal Parks, and briefly saw Buckingham Palace. We’d spent a day out and about, visiting Stonehenge and Bath. We had gone to a musical in the West End and explored the East End during a food tour. We’d even visited the Magna Carta at the British Library.
Yet we had not even been near Trafalgar Square?!
That’s insane, yes. But it’s true. London is just that enormous. We’d had five full, action-packed days of sight-seeing and adventures behind us, and we hadn’t even ventured into one of the biggest draws in town.
A River Walk
To start our day, we headed east. We were going to wander through the eastern side of London, eventually joining the South Bank walk. Many resources describe this route, and its an easy path to follow without navigational aids. I had two objectives: 1. See St. Paul’s Cathedral. 2. Walk across Millenium Bridge.
Our prior day in London’s east side had been packed full of activities. And a visit up St. Paul’s dome is not one of the cheaper admission tickets in town. We decided not to visit at all rather than trying to rush in without appreciating this place.
But if nothing else, I just wanted to walk near St. Paul’s Cathedral.
I do think it would be nice to explore this building, mostly for the Whispering Gallery and the city view. In particular, it offers an interesting view of our next destination, the Millennium Bridge.
How Pedestrian
As we continued our walk past St. Paul’s, we almost immediately found ourselves in front of the Millennium Bridge. This bridge commemorates the year 2000 and did open in June of that year. It’s an interesting and modern design, contrasting with all the other bridges spanning the Thames in London. It’s more than 100 years younger than any of those other bridges, and it is open only to pedestrian traffic.
The design of this bridge does lack the tall supports that are common in suspension bridges – meaning it’s one of those bridges that seems to shift under your feet. And that apparently led to it receiving its quirky local nickname, “Wobbly Bridge”. Well, it was quite wobbly. In fact, it was only open to foot traffic for mere days before it was closed again. Reinforcements were needed to compensate for the shifting underfoot; the bridge did not open – and remain open – until 2002. “Millennium” bridge, indeed!
Note: Many interesting bridges were built to celebrate the new millennium; this is just one of the best known. There’s one in Chicago that I definitely will be checking out… if/when I ever finally make it to that city.
Strangely, I have a bit of an aversion to driving over some bridges. But allow me to walk over a river, and I’m there. This is my jam. I do not know why, but I absolutely love pedestrian bridges.
The placement of the Millennium Bridge is also notable, as it basically connects St. Paul’s with Tate Modern. And once over the Thames on the South Bank, we simply began following the path along river.
We passed by The Globe Theatre, a nice homage to Shakespeare, and the remains of Winchester Palace (who knew?) before catching a tube west toward Westminster.
Going to Church
Westminster Abbey is part of a UNESCO world heritage site, one of several in the London area. Understandably, it draws a huge number of tourists.
Our visit was scheduled to coincide with its opening for the day, to avoid crowds as much as possible. Of course, there was a significant line, regardless, but ours did move quickly. It did not take long for us to get through the admission process, grab our audioguides, and begin our walk into the chapel.
The audio tour provides information very helpful for understanding the historical importance of the people entombed in Westminster Abbey (and some who, notably, are not). Admittedly, my friend’s interest in the abbey was greater than mine, but that’s one reason why the audioguide here was welcome. Instead of being on a guided tour, we each listened independently to the stops we found most interesting.
When the guide progresses to the tombs and chapels honoring England’s past monarchs, the abbey’s crowd does become more concentrated. The tombs reside in smaller spaces nearby, and the crowds mill in and out of the small rooms. The audioguide directs the flow of traffic, making it orderly chaos. But it is still easy to deviate any time you need to step away.
We also booked admission to the Queen’s Diamond Jubilee Galleries, which allowed us an upstairs visit to see many items related to the monarchy, from wedding fashions to death masks. Visits have designated times for entry, so there was a very small number of people during our visit. For those with a great interest in the coronations, weddings, and deaths in the royal family, this is a worthwhile addition to a tour of Westminster Abbey.
Just keep in mind that it’s not a terribly expensive ticket to get into the Galleries. But the sum of the general ticket and the Galleries does end up being about £25.
Returning downstairs to the crowds of the Abbey, we made sure to see the dedications to notable literary figures in the Poet’s Corner before leaving the church behind.
Ottolenghi
Next, we escaped to find the lunch I’d looked forward to most: Ottolenghi.
This restaurant offers many prepared salads, amazing desserts, and very little dining space. Literally there is one table inside, which seats six and should be shared by parties. There is also a table or two outside, and the option for take-away. But we were able to sit inside, and ende up having an engaging conversation with a friendly dining neighbor. And we also, it should be said, ate entirely too much food.
We each had at least one salad that we really loved and both our desserts were excellent.
But really the most stellar thing about this lunch was that the chef, Sami Tamimi, came out to meet us. I had recognized his name when the waitress mentioned him, and she insisted that she would have him come say hello. This was a bit of a ridiculous, embarrassing fangirl moment. Truly, I felt utterly silly.
Also, he now has his own cookbook called Falastin, which I bought as soon as it was released. If you don’t know the Ottolenghi books, they do amazing things with vegetables. And teach you to use spices other than salt, pepper, and pig. I’m southern, those are the spices we learn. Don’t judge.
After we waddled away from Ottolenghi, we navigated to Harrod’s, the famed department store. Outside of our price point, we wanted to browse here due to its infamy. I think John Lewis might be more to my liking. Honestly, I can’t see why anyone goes here for anything at all. Except they do have very nice public bathrooms.
Caught in a Trap
If you’re a fan of most any popular British thing, you might find related entertainment/sights in London. There is a whole theatre for those interested in Shakespeare. Dr. Who or Harry Potter or Downton Abbey? Yep, go on tours of filming locations. Sherlock Holmes? Most assuredly, you can visit his address. Not too far away in Bath there’s a center dedicated to Jane Austen.
But I love Terry Pratchett. Nothing here. And I am a huge Agatha Christie fan. But to find anything regarding Dame Agatha requires a trek outside of the city to find her country home. London? nada.
How disappointing. I’m a card-carrying member of the Hercule Poirot fan club. I mean, I would be if there was one. What is a rabid fan to do? The only thing a Christie fan can do in London: attend the longest continuously-running production in London!
And so our last London hurrah was a return to Covent Garden to see another show, Agatha Christie’s The Mousetrap.
This play is a mystery, and guests are asked not to reveal the plot/surprise to anyone. And so I will not divulge any details, other than to say that it is balm for the cozy mystery lover’s soul. Any Christie fan would enjoy it. Brava!
Note: It seems the streak has ended, as all productions did cease in London in 2020. The Mousetrap had been performed continuously since 1952. Thanks, Covid-19.
And That’s a Wrap
This was another long, but good, day in London. Westminster Abbey is an undeniably iconic destination. I would particularly recommend it for anyone interested in the royals or the influence of the church. And Ottolenghi was genuinely a highlight for us both, particularly given the gracious attitude of the chef and our server.
But I left London with the impression of an overwhelming city. As much as the tube is your friend in this sprawling metropolis, comfortable footwear is a must. And an interest in long, loooooong walks is highly recommended to really enjoy London.
Our walk this morning was one of the highlights of our trip, for me, along with any time spend in the royal parks. You can find many suggested city walks online and in guides.
Early the following morning, we’d head to the Eurostar. Next stop, Paris!
