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2021 Vaccinated Vacation Adventures

distractedbirder — Sun, 21 Nov 2021 20:33:41 +0000

It turns out that 2021 was, indeed, better than 2020 in many ways. Granted, the endless working from home and refrigerator access probably hasn’t helped the fit of my wardrobe. Bummer. But in terms of travel, the outlook has become markedly more positive. For those of us lucky to have it, access to the vaccine has definitely opened up more vacation options! The year started with the certainty of… well, uncertainty. But a willingness to be adaptable led to a couple opportunities I wouldn’t have predicted in January. — Sadly, I’ve written exactly zero blog posts in recent months, which means I’ve written nothing about the international trips I was lucky to experience in 2021. I definitely should write about them, and I sure hope to do that (and spend more time on this blog in general). But the highlights: The Galapagos In August, I joined a 7-night cruise with Quasar Expeditions on their Evolution yacht. I don’t mean to toot my own horn here, but this was an awesome decision. This company, their boat, and the destination are just flippin’ awesome. This was a live-aboard experience, which definitely is not as affordable as the land-based options in the Galapagos. But 2021 was a time for amazing deals for those willing to pounce on them, so I took the opportunity to fulfill one of my bucket list dreams. And pay less, while the discount was available. Birdy Note: This was a birding tour for me in that I focused on seeing new birds, but it was also a standard tour offered by a non-birding company. There are TONS of wildlife encounters on any Quasar offering, but the focus is not birding or maximizing species. This is not the way to see all/most of the endemic birds of these fascinating islands – unless you do the full 14-night option. (That didn’t really fit into my budget OR leave balance, though!) For birders, I’d suggest that you must either accept fewer birds or go with an actual birding company. Colombia Ok, this is vacation cheating. This was actually just a little extension of my Galapagos vacation, an extra two days to do a little bit of birding around the capital city. I think I ended up seeing a few dozen new birds (although one ebird list seems to have been overlooked, unfortunately). Colombia is one of the birdiest of bird destinations, so two days in the capital city isn’t remotely scratching the surface. I’ll be happy to get back here for better birding someday. But I did see a fantastic rail and two amazing hummingbird gardens, which was great fun. Hummingbirds are also a wonderful test of high-speed photography skills. I learned that I have none. Glacier and Waterton Lakes National Parks Amazing trails, fall colors, and multiple covid tests. Plus grizzly bears! This was my first time in Montana AND the country of Canada, which had only allowed Americans for about a month when we arrived. This international peace park is worth a spot on anyone’s destination list, but I am grateful that we specifically scheduled our family vacation for the shoulder season. Our adventure here taught us that we do, in fact, love Canada and will certainly be returning to Alberta someday soon. Barcelona Birthday Hey there, Spain! It’s been a minute (or two decades). I only visited Madrid and Toledo during my first (high school) trip to Spain, and I remember little of that pre-planned big bus tour. I’d wanted to visit this particular destination city for a couple years. When notified of some heavily discounted fares to Barcelona, which generally experiences tolerable temperatures in November, I decided it must be a sign. I needed to celebrate my birthday in Barcelona! This was four days packed with Gaudí, food tours, and walking too dang much. I did kinda exhaust myself. But… I visited Girona, explored the Gothic Quarter, and ate the best croquettes Barcelona has to offer. Yum. More to Come… I’m excited to get back to my photographs and writing here, and I hope to publish more in the coming weeks. Every trip deserves some attention, and I do love how writing about adventures allows more time for reflection and enjoying the memories. Honestly, I wish it didn’t take me so very long to curate photographs. I am tortoise-like in many ways, including my neck-breaking speed. But I’ll plod along. Glad to have you along on the (very slow) journey!

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U.S. National Parks: A Lifetime of Domestic Bliss

distractedbirder — Sat, 17 Apr 2021 22:50:31 +0000

A recent post about a more thoughtful, intentional approach to travel left out a massive United States-sized hole in my personal bucket list. But of course I don’t think this country lacks for spectacular, noteworthy destinations! There are many amazing places here that I still hope to visit, and most of them are public lands. Despite there being some great cities in the U.S., those urban centers are no match for the grandeur of our greatest National Parks. What’s in a Name? Okay, let’s be really clear about something. Because titles might confuse people. There are 63 “National Parks” in the National Park System. But there are hundreds of properties managed by the National Park Service. National Historical Sites, National Monuments, National Seashores, and National Parks – the list goes on. There are many types of NPS designations. One important thing to know is that there’s nothing hierarchical about it. One placename doesn’t trump another. A seashore indicates the type of habitat, obviously. A historic site probably protects resources of historic significance. Some of the titles are pretty dang specific, right? But “National Park” doesn’t necessarily mean “bigger property” when compared to other NPS properties. After all, some national monuments are enormous, and some National Parks are not. (I’m looking at you, Gateway Arch). And “National Park” doesn’t necessarily mean “more important” when compared to the other sites managed by the National Park Service. Gettysburg and Vicksburg are National Military Parks. The National Mall and Memorials is kinda just doing its own thing out there in Washington, D.C., being absolutely fabulous. Heck, “National Park” mostly means it took an act of Congress to designate (a President can create a National Monument independently by Executive Order) and generally indicates the public uses allowed at the site. So the National Parks aren’t necessarily the “best” properties in the National Park System. But many of them certainly are the jewels in the crown, containing some of the most iconic sights this country has to offer. Step Away from That Screen For the avid outdoorsy traveler, the National Parks are basically affordable playgrounds. Who needs water parks and roller coasters? We have geysers and glaciers and fjords and sand dunes. Don’t like crowds? Take a hike. Literally, not figuratively! Don’t like noise? There’s millions of acres out there. You can find solitude if you seek it, usually only a couple miles down the trail less traveled. Tired of the city lights? Marvel at a flawless night sky at one of a dozen National Parks (of 27 sites in the system). I love visiting our National Parks because they impart the briefest sense of serenity, of connection with nature. The entire point is to gawk at the world around us, whatever strikes our fancy. We can be wowed by the displays of vivid fall foliage, enjoy spectacular views after a challenging mountain ascent, or immerse ourselves in every type of desert landscape. Oh, and there are also fjords and volcanoes. In case we get bored, I guess. Sure, not every site is going to be as appealing (or as accessible) to every person. But it’s a good thing that NPS manages over 400 sites – there are plenty of locations, interests, and activities to choose from. Domestic Bucket List The point so far is that the National Park System is huge, diverse, and there are tons of worthwhile destinations. But in an effort to continue focusing on intentional travel, this is where I bite the bullet. I’m making decisions. I’m putting down in writing which National Parks I’d most like to visit. Luckily blog posts are easy to edit, so I don’t feel much pressure! (1) Glacier National Park This is number 1 because I’m hoping to go here in September 2021. So it’s just going to be listed as #1, and that’s how it is. It also borders northern Montana (Canada). Glacier shares designation with Waterton Lakes National Park as an International Peace Park, so I sure hope to add a new country to my map! But other than its proximity to the great nice north, I’m also very excited about the hikes, the scenery, and the Going to the Sun Road! We’d like to take at least one hike at Logan Pass and a long hike at Two Medicine. Oh, and see bears. BEARS!!! Because I saw a grand total of ZERO brown bears in Alaska, and I’m bitter about it. (2) Yosemite National Park Because the canyons and waterfalls are supposed to be amazing. And it’s good enough for UNESCO, so I guess it’s good enough for me. I might even want to hike half-dome, if I were able to get drawn in the lottery and felt completely crazy at the time. I dunno. Stupider things have happened. (3) Yellowstone National Park Wildlife! Photos! Geysers and hot deadly holes in the ground! You’re right, it’s crazy that I haven’t been to Yellowstone yet. I absolutely agree. (4) Acadia National Park It just sounds pretty. And I’ve never been to Maine. Also, do you even realize how close Acadia is to… PUFFINS???! Definitely need to go to Maine. I mean, Acadia! (But also Maine.) (5) Hawai’i Volcanoes National Park I mean, there are flippin’ active volcanoes. It’s another of our UNESCO world heritage sites. And it’s in Hawai’i, with habitats and fauna that are sure to be unlike that of the continental United States. Surely, it is the most unique of the 63 National Parks. Sign me up! and… how many birds would I see??? Well, not as many as I’d like. Many are endangered. And yet… So many new birds!!! Been There, Done That – Might Go Back Some pretty amazing National Parks are on my above list, I know. Those are the big guns, there. It’s not even terribly hard to make this list with those options! So far, I’ve only been to 19 of our National Parks. Not even half! But at least a few notable parks aren’t on my above list solely because I’ve already been at least once. That isn’t to say that return trips aren’t worthwhile. Sometimes you fall in love with a place and its all you need. Many people love to vacation that way, and I feel a sort of envy at that type of… contentment? satisfaction? But I suppose wanderlust drives me to want to see all the pretty things or exciting things. Or, maybe more accurately, the new-to-me things. Some already-visited national parks, like the Grand Canyon or Olympic, I just loved. My trip to Mammoth Cave was back in 1992 or so, long enough that there are no photos and the memories are faded. My stop in Denali was a rainy half-day with little opportunity to explore. Of course I’d go those places again! But I’ll leave them off the bucket list for now, only because they don’t carry the same urgency as those I’ve yet to explore. Quibbles and Caveats For all my love our our National Park System, I can’t claim it’s a well-kept secret. Most people have probably ventured to at least a few of these properties, but some of them bring astounding crowds. Each year, literally millions of people flock to the most popular parks. Solitude and quiet must be intentionally sought; they probably will not be granted to you upon arrival at the Visitors Center! Vacation Considerations: Planning. Just check out basic information for any Park before visiting. Best seasons? Road construction? Trails might have been washed out, roads could be closed. All sorts of little details that could impact your trip can easily be found on each Park’s NPS site. For instance, the in 2020-2021 the pandemic is certainly changing shuttle stops and availability, access, and even capacity. If you’re aware of changes, you might at least be able to minimize disappointment or plan alternatives. Crowds. If you’re traveling during the summer when children are out of school and most Americans can also travel, you’ll encounter the most crowds. This is true pretty much everywhere. This doesn’t mean “don’t go”. The best time to go is… whenever you can go! But if you want less crowds, look for less popular sights/trails. And if you can, travel during the shoulder season. Lodging. Some Parks have lots of options both inside and at local towns nearby, some don’t. Many notable Parks have some rustic, historic lodges (if you’re willing to pay the price and sometimes book a year early). Some have fantastic campgrounds (Zion and Bryce Canyon are amazing examples!). You’ll need to check out availability if you want to reserve one (and some must be reserved well in advance). Pets. Ah, as a traveler with a big more flexibility in timing, I can avoid crowds more easily than I can avoid this complete disappointment. Alas, most National Parks are not at all pet-friendly. You’d need to check into this for any Park before visiting. Often pups are allowed in campgrounds and, often, on certain paved trails. But a more liberal trail policy is certainly the exception, rather than the rule. My previous post describes one shining example of a dog-friendly National Park, if you are indeed hoping to bring fido on your hikes. Ready to Go? I definitely appreciate our U.S. National Parks for beauty, recreation, and access to nature. I think they’re some of our best vacation destinations. How do you feel about the U.S. National Parks? Are you a Park “collector”, or do you have a favorite Park that keeps drawing you back?

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The Inexperienced Hiker’s Guide to the Grand Canyon

distractedbirder — Thu, 25 Mar 2021 09:30:00 +0000

What is a long day hike into the Grand Canyon really like? How should someone prepare for the rim to river hike? What should my fitness level be? These are legitimate questions that should be considered if someone is about to attempt an arduous hike into the Grand Canyon. If you’re an experienced hiker with plenty of challenging hikes under your belt, I might not have much insight to offer you. But if you’re new to the desert southwest and/or long, grueling day hikes? I’m your girl! I have already made the ill-advised missteps, and I’m happy to share them with you. Whether this is “for your information” or just for your entertainment is entirely up to you, of course. The National Park Grand Canyon National Park is always one of the most visited sites in the National Park System, with about 6 million visitors annually. There are actually two entrances – the North Rim and the South Rim – but these access completely different areas. This hike is from the South Rim, which is the most popular and most developed area of the park. It’s not too far from Flagstaff and offers lodging and other facilities both inside and just outside of the Park. There’s an entrance fee of $35 to access this park, which does include being able to access the trailheads. Once you pay the fee, it covers your entire vehicle for seven days. And the entry covers both the South and North Rims. The Park operates the Hikers’ Express, a shuttle providing service as early as 6am. It will ferry you directly to the South Kaibab Trailhead to start your hike! Shuttles start running from very early until late, connecting trailheads to parking areas. Pay attention to where you parked so you’ll know which (if any) bus you should use to get back to your vehicle after the hike. Note: This hike is NOT dog-friendly. Leashed pets are only allowed in developed areas and on above-rim trails at Grand Canyon National Park. However, there is a kennel at the South Rim if you need pup care while on a day hike! A Word of Warning The Park provides subtle signage and gentle warnings on trail guides to dissuade people from attempting the Rim-to-River as a Grand Canyon day hike. Actual verbiage is something like: “DO NOT attempt to hike from the rim to the river and back in one day, especially May to September.” Although I survived the hike, I would argue that the NPS makes a valid point. The Trails Grand Canyon National Park maintains a significant number of trails as well as an immense network of backcountry options. It is the corridor trails that are very well maintained and frequently traveled. The most recommended Rim to River hike includes these trails: South Kaibab Trail (Length: 7.0mi, Change in Elevation: 4,780’): Diving into the Canyon along a ridge, this trail doesn’t have water access and provides one restroom along the way to the Colorado River. This trail doesn’t provide much shade, but it has some great viewpoints. For a day hike, Grand Canyon National Park recommends only going down to Skeleton Point, a great view about 3 miles from the rim. This trail meets the North Kaibab Trail (the corridor trail that leads to the North Rim) past the river. Bright Angel Trail (Length: 9.5mi, Change in Elevation: 4,380’): Providing a bit more shade than the South Kaibab, this trail is also slightly less steep. Unlike South Kaibab, there is water available on this trail, which makes it the preferred uphill choice. Water is always available at Indian Garden, about halfway up the trail. The 1.5-mile and 3-mile rest houses also provide water in the warmer months, around early May until early October. River Trail (Length: 1.7mi): Bordering the Colorado River, this trail connects the South Kaibab Trail to the Bright Angel Trail. This isn’t part of the route I used, nor is it entirely recommended. Crossing over the foot bridges to the Bright Angel Campground provides your first chance to refresh your water after the hike down South Kaibab. Fitness First To satisfy my undeniable impulses to reference fantasy literature whenever possible, I’ll make the first rule simple: Don’t Panic! But do realistically assess your fitness level. Know your limits and what you need to do to be ready for the hike. This is the first thing you should consider, period. If you’re not physically ready for the trek, you’ll enjoy it less and might even be miserable. However, with preparation, you can give yourself the best chance of not just completing your hike but having fun while you’re at it. Physical Preparation: Think about where you are now, where you’re going, and what you need to do to maximize your chances of a great hike. Gear and such will follow. Despite my terrible indecisiveness, it is still a much easier thing to buy shoes and pants than to spend months training! And you might need to do just that. Can you easily hike/walk many continuous miles? Do you normally hike at higher altitude? Are you able to hike long, demanding uphill trails? The Grand Canyon will required these things of you, and the uphill hike will be on tired legs after more than 8 miles of knee-jarring descent. How can you make sure your hike is a good one? Go on local hikes. Try to increase distance regularly. If you don’t have options for long hikes, double the hike or combine some short ones. You want to increase your endurance. Don’t forget the incline. The Grand Canyon has a lot of downhill followed by lots of uphill. If you live in a flatter area, this might be difficult but there are creative solutions. Do stairs. Find a challenging hill and do repeats. Use a treadmill at the maximum incline. Give yourself time. If you know that you’re going well in advance, a lack of fitness can be overcome. But it’s probably not be something you can overcome in a month or two. Slow and steady is fine. But, more accurately, slow and steady and consistent. Keep at it, stay on your feet, and keep increasing your efforts. Hiking Logistics Ok, so you’re ready to go. You’ve trained for this. You’re fit enough that the trek won’t be insufferable, and you’ve decided to be a maniac and hike down to the Colorado River in the Grand Canyon. Let’s do this! What else do you need to be ready? Well, not much, really. You need basic hiking gear and good ole common sense. First, please be kind to your fellow hikers. Follow trail etiquette. Most importantly: Give right-of-way to uphill hikers. You will appreciate this when you’re the one hiking up! Actually, it’s the Grand Canyon. It might be more important to note that mules have the right-of-way, period. Don’t mess with them, be quiet around them, and let them pass. Second, be kind to your knees. You are going up, and also down, a whole lot of elevation here. And yes, the descent might be easier than the ascent. But your knees will probably agree to disagree with you on this point. My biggest recommendation for any significant hike is to take trekking poles. These are collapsible and can be tied onto a pack when unneeded, but just having a single pole can save your knees from a world of hurt. Next, be kind to your skin. Wear sunscreen. Wear a ridiculous (but super effective, protective) wide-brimmed hat. There’s little to no shade on the South Kaibab Trail. There are occasional bits of shade along the Bright Angel Trail, but the vast majority of your time with be spent in the sun. And finally, be kind to your feet. Dang, you’re asking a lot of your poor tootsies here, and they deserve your recognition and support in the endeavor! Get them some nice shoes. Comfortable hiking shoes that you know fit well because you’ve worn them already. Hiking the corridor trails means you’re avoiding wet conditions, so don’t worry about waterproof features. A day hike means you’re not toting a terribly heavy pack, making a tall boot completely unnecessary. So hiking shoes, like my favorite Oboz, are completely appropriate for this endeavor. Get them some appropriate socks. Make sure you’re wearing nice, comfy wicking socks to prevent/reduce blisters. I like smartwool, Darn Tough, and even these trail toe socks from Injinji. Yes, toe socks. They’re great if your toes tend to rub together too much! Be ready to take care of them. Take some leukotape, because no one enjoys blisters. Apply it to any spots that seem to be rubbing as soon as the discomfort starts. It’s pretty great stuff. General Trail Precautions Always check the weather before attempting this hike – both for rain and temperature. Don’t do this hike during summer! It’s far better to time it around April/May or October/November – nicer weather, less ridiculous heat, and less crowds. But the extreme heat is the real bugger to avoid. It will always be much warmer by the river! We left a chilly South Rim to encounter a temperature of >90℉ by the river. Be prepared for an endurance hike. This is not a sprint. Mentally prepare to hike all day, even if you might accomplish it much more quickly. The descent goes quickly, but the ascent will seem to take ages. The first set up switchbacks didn’t feel terrible. The second set, to reach the rim, lasts four miles. Literally 4 MILES of ascending switchbacks. But, again, don’t panic: Take your time. Take breaks. Rest as needed. You’ll probably be faster than I was and take fewer breaks than I did. Planning is important. Some water stops are seasonal. Know when and where you can get water. Bright Angel Campground and Indian Garden should be year-round sources. Pack a light/lamp, in case you have a slow friend who shouldn’t be doing this type of thing in the first place. Maximize daylight – The Hiker Express (shuttle) begins service to the trailhead before sunrise. Don’t carry too much, you’ll feel extra weight when you’re packing it uphill! Do carry a lunch and/or snacks. It’s a long hike, and Bright Angel Campground provides a nice shady spot to have an early lunch after your descent. And the most important thing to remember is to only do what you’re comfortable doing. This is your hike, these are your goals. There are many day hikes options at Grand Canyon National Park, including some that NPS actually recommends as day hikes. One I could recommend is to head down to Ooh Aah Point on the South Kaibab Trail and watch the first rays of the sun light up the canyon. And if you want to experience this hike over days, there is a campground and a rustic lodging option, the Phantom Ranch, at the bottom of the canyon. If this is an option, you’d need to pack more – although you can actually pay for a service to have mules pack in your gear for you! Reservations should be made in advance – probably the year before. Personal Insights In my case, I realized I had an opportunity to do the Rim to River hike in February. The date for the hike was April. April is a fantastic time to do the hike, and I’m much more likely to hike with friends. I jumped at the chance. That doesn’t mean I should have. I’d been recovering from an autoimmune flare that had devastated my muscles and joints, was still medicated to reduce inflammation, and generally was in the early stages of regaining fitness. I hadn’t walked more than a few miles in ages. I only did a couple preparation hikes once I committed myself to the canyon hike, too. One was about 5 miles. I have awesome memories of this hike, make no mistake. But the ascent on tired legs was not something...

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