museums Archives - Distracted Birder

Poor, Unfortunate Soles: A Walk in the Left Bank in Paris

distractedbirder — Thu, 22 Apr 2021 01:00:00 +0000

One of the great joys of Paris is how utterly, delightfully walkable it is. It’s a huge city, yes, so the fantastic metro is a wonder for increasing access to most of the city. But once you know where you want to go, the absolute best way to explore – if you’re able – is simply to point yourself in the right direction and walk those tootsies off. That’s exactly the approach we took when took a walk through the neighborhoods of Paris’ Left Bank. Walk It Out My travel partner during my last trip to Europe would probably be the first person to accuse me of being entirely too dedicated to walking as a mode of transport. It’s true that I am absolutely, positively an unabashed fan of walking everywhere when visiting a city. If it’s a feasible distance through safe neighborhoods, I’m gonna hoof it. A few reasons: Walking everywhere helps ease the irrational (read: completely legitimate) guilt I feel about eating a bit too much (read: being an unrestrained glutton) while travelling; I’ll probably just generally see more and notice odd things. I notice very little so I need all the help I can get!; and I just like it. I promise, I really am aware that the metro, bikes, buses, and even cars do exist in cities and are sometimes more practical options. I’ll take the subways when needed, of course. I’m pretty realistic about physical and/or time limitations. But my strong preference is to walk when I can. Around the Arrondissements We visited Paris after a trip to London, a city that just sprawls in every direction. Even sticking to many tourist meccas in London, it seemed like it was impossible to cover enough ground. And just accessing the tube stations can be an excursion before ever seeing a turnstile, much less a train. Getting from neighborhood to neighborhood there can be a test of endurance. In contrast, much of Paris seems centered around the River Seine, with a prime tourist destination like the Louvre visible on one bank while the Musée D’Orsay beckons on the other. And although a few destinations – like Montmartre or Père Lachaise Cemetery – might require a hop on the metro, a first-time visitor could certainly spend several days around the city’s center with plenty of interesting walking tours to keep yourself entertained. The neighborhoods of Paris, called arrondissements, are numbered as a clockwise spiral from the city center to outlying areas. The oldest neighborhoods, around the Louvre and the river islands, have the lowest numbers and are now lumped together, for administrative purposed. These four are called “Paris Centre” and all belong to the north side of the Seine. The Vth, VIth, and VIIth Arrondissements, then, are the neighborhoods nearest the Seine on the opposite side of the river – commonly called “the Left Bank”. My focus for one busy day of endlessly fascinating, but completely manic, sightseeing was this group of uber-expensive neighborhoods. A walk through the Left Bank of Paris is a treat filled with plenty of highlights. It’s filled with beautiful gardens dotted with fine sculptures and fancy bistros. Is there any better way to spend a day? The Itinerary We accessed the Left Bank by first hopping on a train and popping up at the Cite metro station. Our first destination was St. Chappelle. It’s on the Ile de Cite and makes a perfect springboard to the Left Bank. Saint-Chapelle If you like stained glass, this is the place for you! It’s a popular spot, and entry is covered by the Paris Museum Pass. The church is not immense, but it was built to house some of the most important Christian relics. Most visitors are here seeking a visit to the Holy Chapel on the upper level. It will dazzle you with more than 1,100 stained glass windows, meant to tell the story of those relics. Important Note: Two queues might be present at the entrance to Saint-Chapelle, but only one is for entry to the Church! We arrived before opening but stood in the wrong line. I’m not joking, two queues form at the very same spot, but it’s not readily apparent if you are approaching from the Cite metro station (from the north side). If you stand in front of the entrance to Saint-Chapelle, one line snakes toward the left bank. Another line forms to the right. You want to join the left (south) queue, otherwise you’re standing in line for… a day in court? Shakespeare & Company We headed over to see the exterior of Notre Dame before heading south to cross the river. We started exploring the Left Bank with a visit to this notable English-language bookstore in the heart of Paris. A stop here feels is a bit of an adventure in literature. It’s full of tiny rooms and stairwells here and there. And it also offers a cafe with a nice selection of breakfast options. Musée de Cluny This museum drew our attention because my fellow traveler has a deep love of textiles. The Cluny holds many examples of medieval art and should appeal to anyone with that interest. But one of its most notable exhibits is the Unicorn Tapestries. These woven pieces were created from wool and silk during the Middle Ages. Seven sequential tapestries tell a story of the hunt for a magical and elusive unicorn. These are impressive in their scale (i.e., they’re huge), their preservation, and their level of detail. Honestly, our visit to the Cluny did not take too much time, because we were primarily there to see these tapestries. They fill a single room and the museum is easy to navigate. Luxembourg Gardens There’s a palace, there are amazing gardens full of color, and there are tons of people to watch. When you’re ready for a break, I can’t think of a more beautiful setting than these gardens. And based on the number of people seated around the gardens or picnicking nearby, I imagine most locals feel the same way. If you’re not tired yet, this is also a great place for exploration. There are a number of sculptures throughout, plus many recreation areas and tree-lined corridors. Oh, and if you’re peckish but didn’t bring a picnic, there’s also Angelina. We had lunch here – mine was savory, my friend chose the brunch option. We both loved our food, and can attest to the hot chocolate being both delicious and insanely decadent. Musée Rodin This is a bit of a hike to and from, well west of our last stop. But this is well worth it. It might not be in the heart of all the other sights, but it’s just beautiful. The gardens are well-kept and peaceful. The museum itself is in an old, restored mansion. The grounds are expansive and hold fantastic sculptures as you wander through. This is easily one of my most favorite museums. If you’d like a museum experience with fewer crowds and less noise and bustle, this will be a welcome experience. Musée D’Orsay And here is the noise and bustle that the Musée Rodin entirely lacked! The line experience here, late in the day, was a breeze. They provide a separate line for the Paris Museum Pass holder. The building itself is an old train station. It’s a beauty, and at the end opposite the entrance, you can head up to the highest level and get a lovely view of the entire facility. The exhibits confused me greatly. I am apparently an anomaly, though. This museum is supposed to be the most popular museum in Paris among Americans. It holds more recent, post-Louvre pieces – from the mid-1800s til the early 1900s – from primarily French artists. So there is a bit of impressionist and post-impressionist. If that is your jam, you’ll love this place. Note: There’s also a fantastic, beautiful clock that makes a wonderful photo opportunity – you can even see Paris in the background. Unfortunately, this has become immensely popular with the insta-crowd, so don’t be afraid to barrel into the area and get your own great photo. Perhaps I was there on a bad day or during a particularly busy moment, but I got the impression that politely waiting for the well-dressed wannabe-influencers to be done with their photo sessions would be futile. The Day’s End We’d chosen an Airbnb in Paris located on Rue Montorgueil in the 2nd Arrondissement. This is a fantastic location close to several Metro stations (and different lines). It is also within walking distance of many sights near the city center. But after a long day, I decided to give myself a rest. I found a nearby Metro station to take the easiest route back home for the night. Your risk tolerance might be much greater than mine, but I’m not fond of walking alone at night in any city. Although this was the end of my day, I should also point out that there were many hours remaining in the evening for finding a nice restaurant for dinner or going to a fun bar for entertainment. Lagniappe There are certainly ways this walk in the Left Bank of Paris could be easily modified for other interests, if you’re willing to exchange some of my above destinations. Here are just a few ideas: On the same side of the River Seine, you’d also find Jardin des Plantes with a Natural History Museum and Museum of Evolution. It’s far enough east that it would require a large portion of the day, particularly if visiting the museum(s). If time does not permit a stop here, you might drop by Deyrolle in Saint-Germain-des-Prés to browse an unusual shop with a natural history vibe. The Panthéon is a beautiful building and the final resting place of many notable figures, including Victor Hugo and Voltaire. This stop also appeals to folks who like views of the city. (But if that is your primary motivation, you’ll also be able to get some other nice views for free or included with your Paris Museum Pass.) Église de Saint Germain des Prés is an 11th-century reconstructed church that might be a worthwhile alternative for folks who wanted to see the Cathedral of Notre Dame but are currently unable due to its ongoing reconstruction. Of course, visiting Paris at the time of writing isn’t in the cards at all while still being greatly impacted by the pandemic, but we all hope that some sort of “normal” will come back soon. When that happens, any of these locations are great options for a trip to Paris – I’ll definitely be hitting the Jardin des Plantes the next time I can visit. Which Left Bank destinations would you choose?

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Our Best Mall is Not for Shopping

distractedbirder — Sun, 29 Nov 2020 15:51:42 +0000

When I was planning a European adventure in 2019, the variety of free museums in London was a huge relief. We were trying to be very conscious of budget constraints on that particular trip, and London itself is not generally a budget-friendly city to visit. But the costs of daily entertainment can be greatly minimized if people are willing to avoid the tourist traps. Just stick to the bastions of world history, art, and culture. How’s that for biased language? Obviously I’m saying that as someone who avoided most of the tourist traps. So there, London Eye! Take that! It occurs to me, though, that my own country’s capital city is deserving of the same appreciation. Like London, a trip to Washington D.C. is not generally cheap. And also like London, Washington D.C. can help to compensate for the high cost of lodging with free-to-the-public museums and monuments. Location, Location But where London’s free museums are spread throughout the city, the majority of D.C.’s museums are concentrated along the National Mall. In addition to its museums, the National Mall features a significant number of National Park Service memorials. The National Mall is generally considered to be the area between the U.S. Capitol Building to the Lincoln Memorial. In the eyes of a visitor, it’s easy to add West Potomac Park to the National Mall’s footprint. West Potomac Park is the area just south of the Lincoln Memorial. The Korean War and Jefferson Memorials are perhaps its most famous sights. It’s also home to the Martin Luther King, Jr. Memorial and the Franklin D. Roosevelt Memorial around the tidal pool. Decisions, Decisions Your favorite museums and memorials will probably be driven by your own interests. My favorite memorials to visit have been the Korean War Veterans’ Memorial and the Vietnam Veterans’ Memorial. It probably goes without saying that the Smithsonian Museums are worth a visit. I love the National Museum of Natural History. It usually has a rotating photographic exhibit that is worth a stop, no matter how many times I’ve been before. But I’d say a non-Smithsonian museum, the United States Holocaust Memorial Museum, is easily the best museum I’ve ever visited. Even after seeing the museums of London and Paris, I’d have to call this museum the better of them all. That being said, the Holocaust Memorial Museum isn’t fun to visit. There are barriers preventing the youngest from seeing some of the images, particularly near the end of the experience. And it genuinely is an experience. Walking through the collection takes visitors on a chronological journey through post-World War I Europe, through World War II, and the resulting criminal prosecutions. The exhibits are emotionally evocative and haunting. The voices of the past speak to you; in one room, you can sit as long as desired and listen to Holocaust survivors telling their stories in their own words. I absolutely recommend this museum more than any other. And then do something fun and uplifting (NOT sad or even remotely thought-provoking) after leaving. Monuments Museums Franklin D. Roosevelt MemorialMartin Luther King, Jr. MemorialKorean War Veterans MemorialLincoln MemorialThomas Jefferson MemorialVietnam Veterans MemorialWashington MonumentWorld War II Memorial National Museum of American HistoryNational Museum of Natural HistoryHirshhorn Museum and Sculpture GardenNational Museum of the American IndianNational Air and Space MuseumUnited States Holocaust Memorial MuseumNational Museum of Art Other recommended sites: The U.S Capitol, Library of Congress, and the U.S. Botanic Garden. Little Details I’ve been lucky to visit the city numerous times, including living there for a month for work-related business. I spent most of my free time exploring (mostly free) venues, except a few of the art options. The only other Smithsonian museum I still haven’t been able to visit is the National Museum of African American History and Culture. It requires a free timed-entry pass, generally booked at least the day prior. It’s possible I was unaware of this requirement when I tried to go. It’s certainly worth looking into entry requirements for any memorial, monument, or museum before a trip. The United States Holocaust Memorial Museum also uses timed entry. And a timed entry into the Washington Memorial is also possible. In our case, we signed up as early as possible in the morning and were assigned a timed group entry a few hours later. I don’t often join facility tours, but there are plenty of options available for folks who want more information about these NPS properties. Most properties can be visited without a tour, though, so base that decision on interest and time. Just keep in mind that walking the entire National Mall can take quite a while and plan accordingly. It’s a great idea to give yourself a little more time here. When you think about all the other opportunities nearby – e.g., the White House, the National Archives, Ford Theatre, the Library of Congress – it’s easy to see how a walking tour could take a while. I haven’t really run out of interest here before I’ve run out of energy. Quick Visit? Fast Options Of course, one option for fans of unsteady wheeled transport would be a tour of the city on a Segway. Washington D.C. is certainly chock full of sights just itching for some drive-by narrative. Honestly, it wasn’t so bad. And, honestly, I’ll probably never do it again. But at the very least, I managed to walk away with zero injuries. I consider that a huge win. Our tour was a bit more expansive, too, rolling by many sites beyond the Mall. Given the tremendous concentration of historic sites in the area, I imagine it’s one of the best cities in the world for such a touristy thing. Not in the market for a segway tour? I don’t blame ya at all! In that case, running the National Mall is another great option! Few city areas in the U.S. are this historic or scenic. Take advantage of it! Running certainly provides a fast(er) way to see all the sites. And a strategically-timed early run means being able to visit sites soon after opening. More importantly, an early morning run means having the National Mall nearly to oneself. It can’t get much better than that! Shop the Mall If you’re planning your own visit to D.C., make the most of the National Mall. The weather is bearable most of the year (although fall and spring are probably most pleasant). It’s easy to get there via the D.C. metro system. The sites are memorable and worthwhile. The museums are world-class. Just check hours and entry requirements before arrival, and try to give yourself enough time to see the highlights important to you!

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