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How to Prepare for Mountain Gorilla Treks

distractedbirder — Sat, 20 Feb 2021 18:57:58 +0000

If you’re here, maybe you’re considering a gorilla trek. Is it something you want to do? Probably, yes! But to prepare for gorilla treks, you’ll want to know your options. And once a destination is determined, many questions pop up. How should I dress? What do I need to take with me? Is it safe? I’ll tell you here, but first let’s provide a little context about our target species. An Introduction to Gorillas The short story is that there are two species of gorilla: eastern and western. That’s pretty simple, right? Populations of the lowland subspecies of western gorillas are more significant, but the Cross River subspecies numbers are tiny. The eastern gorilla is not faring very well, either. The populations of the lowland subspecies have steeply declined in recent years. All three of these subspecies are listed as “critically endangered” by the International Union for the Conservation of Nature (IUCN). Mountain gorillas are the other subspecies of the eastern gorilla, and mountain gorillas are listed as endangered by the IUCN. There are only about 1,000 of them in the wild. That means there are about 1,000 of them, period. Mountain gorillas do not thrive in captivity. You won’t see one at your local zoo. And, as surprising as it might seem, a global population of 1,000 is actually a positive. Mountain gorilla numbers are actually increasing. That’s why, despite the seemingly low numbers, the current status of mountain gorillas is better than the other subspecies. Conservation efforts have recently been successful. Preservation of habitat is working. Active community engagement is effective. And your participation in a mountain gorilla trek provides funding to ensure this success continues. Destination Decisions Uganda is home to more than half of all remaining mountain gorillas. But to be clear, other mountain gorilla trek options are available in Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. So why am I talking about Uganda? Well, let’s look at your other options: 1. Democratic Republic of Congo: Pros: Mountain gorillas and chimpanzees call Virunga National Park, another world heritage site, home. The DRC is doing great things for gorillas. Virunga looks amazing. You can hike up active volcanoes. The southern zones (with volcanoes and gorillas) are generally considered safe and are open to tourists. The rangers at Virunga are working in what is probably the most dangerous conservation job in the world and deserve nothing but respect for their efforts and dedication. Gorilla Permit Cost: $400. Cons: Did you read what I just said?! The rangers at Virunga are working in what is probably the most dangerous conservation setting in the world. Period. Yes, the areas of militant activity are generally not the southern zones for volcanoes or gorillas, so usually the park is open to tourists. But should this information be a consideration before you book a tour? Well, probably. 2. Rwanda Pros: Rwanda apparently could have an easier trek – more open habitats, less difficult terrain. Rwanda has tremendous infrastructure for the luxury gorilla trek experience, if that’s more your style of travel/budget. And there are loads of primates, beyond apes, if that appeals. Cons: Less diversity, particularly for charismatic megafauna and birds. Gorilla Permit Cost: $1500. This article does a pretty good job of providing a comparison between Rwanda and Uganda. But it does spin Rwanda a bit more positively, so I’m gonna give Uganda a fair shake, too. 3. Uganda: Pros: Uganda is home to half the world’s mountain gorillas. If you’re looking for birding or a safari experience, Uganda is a great option. And Kibale National Park also offers chimpanzee treks, and there are loads of other primates. Lodging options range from budget to very comfortable in most locations, particularly Bwindi and Kibale. Gorilla Permit Cost: $600 (or $1500, if you want the unique option) Cons: Well, Rwanda might win as far as ease is concerned – Bwindi can be a beast, that’s true. “Impenetrable” is indicative of the difficulty of the terrain. You might encounter steep hills and dense vegetation. And maybe even bees, but probably not! The Pearl of Africa Let’s assume you choose Uganda, because that’s where I went. And also because, honestly, you probably should choose Uganda! Note: I’m biased. Really, choose the best option for your budget, travel style, and wildlife interests. There are two National Parks in Uganda that offer mountain gorilla treks. But the best spot to see mountain gorillas (the spot with the most permits available, certainly) is Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. Bwindi is home to a population that could be identified as its own subspecies someday, and it is also listed as a UNESCO world heritage site. Four sectors of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park offer gorilla treks. I’ll emphasize that it is highly recommended to stay in lodging near your gorilla trek sector, unless you want a long drive very early in the morning. For most, this won’t be a concern. This detail would be arranged by your gorilla trek outfitter, if you’re participating in a guided tour. Conservation Ethics Wait! Should we even be doing gorilla treks? What about the impacts to the mountain gorillas? Excellent thought! Let’s give that some consideration… First, gorillas are actively habituated for years before tourist groups are allowed to visit them. Trackers observe them and follow their movements without engaging with the animals. Thus, gorillas can adapt to the movements and sounds of humans. After extensive exposure to and acceptance of human presence, a gorilla troop may be exposed to gorilla trekking tours. This process might take years. Yep, years. Plural. Now, doing this does mean that their behavior changes, adapting to our presence. And maybe that’s not ideal, but gorillas are still wild animals whose behaviors are not being intentionally modified or directly inhibited in this process. Minimizing Risks What other precautions are taken to protect the mountain gorillas? Once a group does receive visitors, the tourists are allowed to stay a maximum of 1 hour. That’s it; and The trekking group will be no more than 8 people; and Only one group of trekkers will visit a group in a given day; and Trekkers will be required to stay at least 7m from any individual gorilla (although gorillas might not adhere to that policy, humans are not allowed to intentionally approach the gorilla at that distance); and The ranger or trackers can end the encounter early if the gorillas are disturbed by the trekkers (whether intentional or not); and Anyone who shows signs of sickness will not be allowed to participate. You can reschedule for another day, but gorillas are susceptible to human diseases. You will not be allowed to share your funk with mountain gorillas! Increasing Benefits And what are some positive impacts of gorilla treks? There is a massive influx of funding, meaning the gorillas have both an intrinsic and economic value. These permits provide funding to continue habitat preservation and development of local infrastructure. The tourism and revenue produced by the lure of the mountain gorillas is a legitimate benefit to the local community – through new business opportunity in the area or indirect gains in local infrastructure and services. Also, trackers and rangers are employed to ensure great treks for the tourists, and local community members can volunteer to be porters. This is a service that most trekkers use and can mean immediate income for those involved. It’s even a rotational assignment, giving a greater number of local citizens the opportunity to participate in this form of employment. The more value the gorillas have, the more valuable the forest is. The more valuable the forest is to everyone, the less support there is for illegal harvest or trapping (whether it be for bushmeat, the pet trade, or personal needs). Preparation for a Gorilla Trek Your gorilla trek could take hours to meet the group of gorillas you are seeking. There are trackers who try to find them early and communicate with your guide. This coordination greatly improves your chances of seeing mountain gorillas in Bwindi, but it doesn’t guarantee an immediate encounter. Since you don’t know how long it might take or what terrain you will encounter, pack and dress accordingly. What to Wear: What you wear during gorilla treks should simply be durable and functional. You’ll want to focus on hiking in uneven terrain, so everything that can go into your bag should go into your bag. The basics: Long pants. You won’t go wrong with long pants, because you’re hiking in dense vegetation at times. Something that fits loose or is made with stretch material is great, and water resistant quick-drying material is also a pretty sweet feature. This Columbia Saturday pant (in black) is comfortable on trail and looks like a nice casual pant outside of a trek. It doesn’t scream “outdoorsy” but is still affordable. A long-sleeve shirt. Yes, you’re in an equatorial country, and it will likely get warm later in the day. But you should have a top layer. You’ll appreciate some barrier from the vegetation. Pick a neutral or light color for activities in the forest. Gloves. These are for the hike – you’ll probably need to grab unknown vegetation as a handhold. And you’ll be using a hiking stick as well, which can be abrasive. These should just be durable enough to protect your hands. Hat. Seriously, wear (or pack) a wide-brimmed hat. Protect your face and skin. Visors and baseball caps are not your friends, y’all. Sunscreen. Again, love your skin. This is absolutely part of today’s outfit. You could be out in the sun for hours. I’m sure you’d wear this anyway, right?! Slather on that sun protection! Hiking shoes. I say hiking shoes, not boots, because higher boots aren’t necessarily beneficial if you’re not carrying a heavy pack. Hiking shoes will be lighter and likely more comfortable. Get a pair with a sturdy sole that fit well, and you’ll be ready to go. Hiking Pole. You’ll be provided some natural hiking staffs at your orientation. If you don’t have a hiking pole of your own, take one of these. It’s not a weakness; your knees will thank you. I used one of these, and it was fine. But they’re all quite long, which means more obstruction from limbs and vines. If you have a telescoping hiking pole that will fit into your suitcase, bring it with you! You’ll love having it here. These are the hiking poles I use (but often I just use one). I hadn’t thought to pack them, but I wish I’d had one during my trek! If you’re particularly petite, you might look at the women’s version. It is slightly shorter. What to Pack Lunch. You might be done by 11 am (like me!) or you might be following a mobile group that requires you to hike much of the day. Bring a packed lunch or snacks. If you’re will an outfitter, this will likely be provided by the company/your lodge. Water. This one is obvious, yet water bottles can be easily overlooked. You’ll be hiking in a hot environment for an unspecified length of time. Don’t forget your water bottle! Rain gear. A good light rain jacket and/or a small collapsible umbrella would not me amiss. Don’t let rain ruin your trek – or your camera, for that matter. Camera. I can’t imagine gorilla treks without capturing the memory in a nice photo or video! Some folks on my trek just had a smartphone with selfie stick, others had mid-level Canon gear. If you bring a nice camera, think about how you’ll protect in if there’s rain. My camera is the Canon 7D Mark II. I love it, but what do I know? Seriously, almost nothing. If you love wildlife photography and are looking for a new entry or mid-level kit, you’re probably already considering it. But if you’re just wanting a camera for nice photos on a gorilla trek, this is not necessary! Only buy what you’ll need and use, if you even...

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The Ultimate Mountain Gorilla Experience in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

distractedbirder — Wed, 10 Feb 2021 02:55:48 +0000

Day 8 of the Uganda Highlights tour was a special day on the tour. This was the day for a mountain gorilla trek in Bwindi Impenetrable National Park! On this particular day, our birding tour group became split into three parts. And although four of us had expressed interest in a trek, mine was the only permit reserved in the Ruhija sector. The Ruhija sector was a two-hour drive from our lodging, so my day started dark and early to get to the orientation by 8am! Our drive took us out of the Buhoma sector of the park, along bumpy rural roads until we re-entered the park in the Ruhija sector. We arrived just in time. I took my seat as our park ranger began the orientation. Just Getting Started Bwindi Impenetrable Forest is a UNESCO world heritage site on the southwest edge of Uganda. Uganda is home to more than half of all remaining mountain gorillas, and Bwindi Impenetrable National Park is the best spot to see them. At the very least, this park issues the most permits and is home to the most groups of habituated gorillas. For any trek, you need a permit. And you need to show up for orientation. You’re introduced to how gorilla conservation developed in the area, the group of mountain gorillas you will hope to encounter, and some logistics. You can choose a porter if you’d like someone to carry your gear, for a nominal fee. And you can choose from a wide variety of walking sticks, if you don’t have your own. And then you’re off into the depths of the Impenetrable Forest. Seriously, though, doesn’t this place have the best name? I’m Going on an Adventure! Our entry into the forest started off the main road, near the Ruhija boundary. And as we moved into the forest, we immediately began to steeply descend. The walking sticks were a necessity, and the porters were immensely helpful in helping us hike downward over dense vegetation. With porters and guide, we had become a group of about 16 people. We tried to move quietly and maintained a line to lessen disturbance. The ranger was leading the queue. He was in contact with trackers who would be telling him the location of the gorillas, once found. At some point, we passed a tree with a fallen branch (or vine? or exposed root?) at our feet. Most of the group had stepped over and gone around the tree by the time I approached. Only two more people were behind me as we descended. My porter turned to me and said something. At this point, he had mostly said something along the lines of “watch your step” as we hiked. I didn’t catch what he said this time, so I paused to ask him to repeat himself. I only knew he had said something different. He said, “Move quick. There are bees.” At that moment, there were bees. Angry, stinging bees. We ran. Down the steep terrain, through the dense vegetation. Hardly seeing what was in front of me, I just followed my porter and tried to cover my head. The buzzing was so loud. There was nothing but a desperation to move, to get away. To make the buzzing stop. I fell. I fell into my porter, causing him to fall as well. My leg twisted in a direction that did not feel at all natural. I scrambled to my feet, others grasping to help me up. And we kept running. The rest of the group had stopped running ahead of us. Some porters had picked up large-leaved branches. They were fanning them about our heads, trying to beat away any remaining bees as we approached. I knew from everyone else’s behavior that the bees were gone. We were safe. But the buzzing wouldn’t stop. We realized that more bees, probably 4-6 of them, were stuck in my hair. Multiple people helped to remove them and helped me remove the stingers from my face and head. I think the others didn’t get too many stings, and the couple people who had been behind me were able to avoid the madness completely, taking a different route. We just took a few moments to recover before moving on. But, wow, when people promised this mountain gorilla trek was a memorable experience, I really had something entirely different in mind. UnBEElievable. A Graceful Entrance? As it turns out, we weren’t all the far from our group of gorillas. Unfortunately, we were close enough that our dramatic, frantic approach had disturbed them. We maintained distance until they seemed calm again and began to re-group. As we approached the area where gorillas had been identified, everyone spotted a young individual and got pretty excited. And while they took photos, something stung my foot. I hate to admit it, but… I JUST ABOUT LOST MY MIND. I will say that the ranger was very aware of this. He saw my reaction. An ant had crawled into my sock and bitten my ankle. He killed the offending invader. He reassured me, in a very reasonable and calming voice, that it was an ant. Then, he began pointing out gorillas others hadn’t seen. Through the remainder of the experience, he continuously offered help as we moved up hills, as he was aware my knee was injured. Oh, he was probably completely convinced I was about to have a nervous breakdown. And for the first few minutes, that assessment was not incorrect. Drama, without the Trauma So maybe there were some deep breaths and a “find your happy place” moments. Maybe it was more along the lines of, “Seriously, do not lose your sh*t in front of mountain gorillas, how embarrassing would that even be???”, but it was effective at the time. I was quickly able to re-join the trek experience! After all, I was only going to have this one opportunity to observe mountain gorillas. I was going to enjoy this, dang it! Besides, I wanted to at least try to get a few decent photos. Luckily, this group of gorillas happened to be more than accommodating. The area they’d chosen to occupy during our brief stay was a fairly large opening in the canopy with plenty of light to take photos. And to simply observe them, when I could convince myself to put down the camera. One gorilla did walk toward me and pass only inches from my leg. I experienced a mixed reaction of near-panic while almost audibly squeeing. I write these things honestly, knowing that I legitimately have zero credibility as a wildlife biologist after I typed that. Whatever. You’d squee, too! Despite our dramatic initial approach, this group of mountain gorillas never overtly showed an adverse reaction to our presence. We were lucky to see quite a few of the group members during our one-hour experience. As we stayed with them, more individuals ambled through the area. Several joined each other, at least briefly, but we never saw more than two actually remain together. Mostly, we watched as one would find a preferred location, stop a while, and… eat. Lots of eating. Is it “eats shoot and leaves” or “eats, shoots, and leaves”? Nevermind, those were pandas. Talk about Great Apes When the dominant silverback moved, there was a clear recognition from the others in the group. It was subtle but evident that his actions, or lack thereof, spoke volumes. His presence had an obvious impact on the movements of the other members of this mountain gorilla family. And we could just watch. Watch them all as they interacted calmly and quietly. No theatrics. No frantic movements. It was a stark contrast to my chimpanzee trek experience just days earlier. Now, I am not saying this is a typical mountain gorilla trek. I’m not saying most gorillas spend most of their time being totally sedate, grazing on the vegetation, and generally just taking care of family business. But that’s what we saw during our hour with these apes. It was awesome. Basically, they were living their best mountain gorilla lives. And for all of an hour, we were blessed enough to be able to observe them in this natural space. It was serenity. It was calm after the storm. These gorillas were magic. All Good Things… Although the experience could be shortened as the ranger sees fit, we were allowed the full one-hour duration. But an hour just isn’t very long at all, is it? Before we knew it, the sun was setting on our experience with the mountain gorillas. Metaphorically. I meant the sun was setting metaphorically. It was only about 10am at this point! It had hardly taken any time at all to find the gorillas. I guess that can happen when you’re desperately trying to evade stinging insects while blindly running toward a large group of massive great apes. Note: this is not the recommended way to approach a mountain gorilla. Our guide gave us a couple warnings that time was coming to an end. And so, after many photos, we walked away from our family of gorillas. It was difficult to leave. For one, we walked away up a very steep hill. But we walked away happy, after a truly remarkable and rewarding wildlife experience. The Twist at the End And, as it turns out, I personally walked away with a knee that rolled in an odd way that was more than a little alarming. Adrenalin is a funny thing indeed, and it apparently abated as the thrill of our gorilla adventure was wearing off. My driver was waiting at the roadside to take me back to our lodge, hours away. I didn’t think to say much about the injury, just mentioning it initially before the long return drive. And then we got back to the lodge, and I realized it was hard to walk. Uh oh. Eventually some of my tour-mates returned to find me unable to leave our lodge’s lobby. There were too many steps to our rooms for me to manage the distance. Luckily, the ministrations of some wonderful tour-mates helped me manage the pain of my twisted knee and my many stings. And our local guide, who is pretty much the best guide ever, sought out ice in the Buhoma area to try to reduce swelling of my knee. And yet another fellow birder loaned a collapsible hiking pole so I might be able to leave my room the next day, even. Now, my mountain gorilla experience didn’t end my birding tour of Uganda. It did, however, restrict the remainder significantly. I was a bit more mobility-challenged than usual. I’d sit out the next day entirely. And I did miss one more very rare bird and quite a few local species during the rest of the trip. But there was plenty to be grateful about: It happened near the end of the tour, so it only impacted a couple real birding days; and I had not actually broken my leg; and I’m not allergic to bees. Post Script: The Day After I don’t want you to feel too bad for me, having to sit at the lodge alone with my injury while everyone else was off birding. Even if situation seem to be dreary, a silver lining can become abundantly clear if you look for it. On this day, a “silver lining” looked exactly like another group of gorillas! Yep, a different mountain gorilla family came to the forest edge by my lodge. I heard them first, shaking the branches of nearby trees. I didn’t have a camera this time – just my binoculars. While everyone else was away, I watched them climb through the trees. Although I was not too close, their trackers kept a close eye on me the entire time. And then they were gone, easily and quietly disappearing further into the forest. Two gorilla experiences? What a wonderful soothing balm that is. Those were memories worth the...

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An Observation of the Rare African Drop Bear, Lion Variant

distractedbirder — Thu, 28 Jan 2021 18:05:43 +0000

Ah, the drop bear. Often thought of as an Australian myth, or an amusing joke used to scare tourists at the very least. As legend has it, they are koala-like in appearance, but with fearsome sharp teeth. They will ambush the unsuspecting who come within spitting distance of their arboreal perch. Drop bears are even referenced by Sir Terry Pratchett as one of the unusual creatures of Fourecks (an island eerily similar to Australia). The drop bear certainly seems to have Australian roots if cryptozoology were to tell the tale. But I have seen them. And I’m here to tell you the truth: drop bears are African, through and through. They also look remarkably like lions. See how the males have a pronounced, floofy mane? There were even multiple females in the same tree with this male, and a cub. Honestly, I can see why you’d think these were lions. But you can tell they’re drop bears. They have an obvious carnivorous nature, an attribute coincidentally shared with lions. But their true drop bear nature is revealed because they’re in a tree, which they can conveniently drop out of… And onto unsuspecting safari tour groups obsessed about taking their photos. Exactly how a drop bear would behave. Of course, it’s perfect camouflage – to appear so similar to an African lion. In Uganda, that makes sense. It would be ridiculous to look like a carnivorous koala in Africa. But these are definitely drop bears. Obviously. Everyone knows lions don’t climb trees, silly bears. I’m Not Lion But if you know that some lions do climb trees, then you might want to see them if you have the opportunity! They can most often be seen in southern Tanzania and far far western Uganda. These particular lions live in the Ishasha area of Queen Elizabeth National Park. We were lucky to see them. We were only driving through this sector on our way to Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. As we drove toward the sector, our guide learned that a group of the arboreal cats had been spotted resting nearby. Our drive into the park was very short. We quickly found the large tree that was our target. As we approached, numerous big cats became visible, scattered in the tree’s limbs. A tree full of lion fruit. What a remarkable sight! This was a brief stop, but such a rewarding bit of adaptation and natural history to witness. We stood through the tops of our vehicles, marveling at the cub and the numerous adults cats lazing above us, paws dangling. Too tired or bored to show us any attention. It was lucky timing for us but truly memorable. I never thought I’d see a drop bear in the wild. And I’m very glad none of them seemed the least bit motivated to pounce! Of course, this was a bird tour. We certainly did see a few birds this day, including a lovely gray crowned crane, the national bird of Uganda. Primarily it was a day of travel, though, with stops when we spotted particularly notable wildlife. But very little could compete with the sight of a pride of lions in their very own tree. Next stop? The mountain gorillas of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park.

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