Rim to River Day Hike: A Grand Canyon Challenge

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Back in 2011, I made a new “bucket list” for the adult, “life is short, actually” version of me. And, for reasons I can’t begin to explain or even understand myself, I identified “Hike the Grand Canyon” as one of my many new life goals.  Specifically, I wanted to do the Rim to River day hike. Again, years later, I can’t actually explain what exactly was going through my mind. Other than insanity, I mean.

I was living in New Mexico, so it didn’t seem like an outlandish destination at the time.  But I didn’t define any timeline or specific goals. It was merely a dream – and a dream for which I had not yet physically prepared in any way. So, it was a dream for the distant future.

Very, very distant future, certainly. Note: This was late summer.

In February, I learned that a good friend would be traveling to Arizona to attend a wedding in April.  She suggested we meet sometime, somewhere, while she was in the region.  She was flying into Phoenix, so this was… genuinely not at all close to me!

So, I asked the only reasonable question: Do you want to meet at Grand Canyon National Park and do the Rim to River day hike?!

She and her husband had not visited the canyon previously, so they agreed. What can I say? I have great, and unreasonably accommodating, friends!

And thus, on a whim, we decided to dedicate ourselves to a leisurely day hike in one of the country’s most iconic landscapes.  

A Canyon Aside

I think the Grand Canyon National Park might have a bad reputation.  I’ve heard it described as “a big hole”.  Well, okay.  That’s not untrue.  If you know what a canyon is, I’m sure you’d expect it to look like a big hole.  The question is – why would you be disappointed by the most ultimate big hole our country has to offer?  It’s a pretty Grand big hole.  I promise you one thing:  the “Grand” Canyon lives up to its name far more than the Rio Grande.  I lived by that Rio, and I can tell you that it was hardly grand OR grande (depending on the location along the river).  So in an absolutely absurd comparison of completely different landscape features using nomenclature that is not actually the same anyway, the Grand Canyon wins. 

(Yes, this is what conversations with me are like.)

Grand Observations

A few notes about Grand Canyon National Park (GCNP):

Most importantly, sometimes there are California Condors (which are magnificent and not a thing you’ll see at Yellowstone or in the Great Smoky Mountains). I have yet to see these birds, and I’m only slightly bitter about this gaping hole in my life list…

The GCNP maintains a significant number of trails as well as an immense network of backcountry options.  It is the corridor trails that are very well maintained and frequently traveled.  Our hike included three trails:

1. South Kaibab Trail (Length: 6.3mi, Change in Elevation: 4860’).
2. Bright Angel Trail (Length: 7.8mi, Change in Elevation: 4460’).
3. Riverside Trail (Length: 1.7mi).

GCNP provides subtle signage and gentle warnings on trail guides to dissuade people from doing the Rim-to-River-to-Rim as a day hike.  Actual verbiage is something like:

“DO NOT attempt to hike from the rim to the river and back in one day, especially May to September.”

And:

“WARNING: Do Not attempt to hike from the rim to the river and back in one day!”

And:

“Warning: DO NOT attempt to hike from the canyon rim to the river and back in one day! Each year hikers suffer serious illness or death from exhaustion.”

Since I am writing about this here, you’ve probably assumed that I survived the hike.  That much is true, but I still would argue that the NPS makes a valid point.

Great Expectations

After online research (i.e., reading some blogs), I decided that we’d be able to handle the hike if we planned correctly.  Blog posts described it as somewhat overrated in difficulty.  I am not joking, I distinctly remember reading about how the uphill portion basically just included two sets of switchbacks. 

Surely, it couldn’t be that bad?

We left our Tusayan hotel early to be at the trailhead by 6am.  We were already on our way down the South Kaibab trail before sunrise.  This bit is important, because the South Kaibab follows a ridge down into the canyon.  If you hike into the canyon using this trail – if you see sunrise while on this trail – you will be surrounded by the brilliant colors of the canyon as light breaks across the horizon. 

This is magic, and this singular experience has been missed by anyone who would dismiss this site as merely a big hole.  

Just under a mile from the trailhead, we reached Ooh Aah Point, the first observation point.  It’s pretty, but we couldn’t stay too long.  We were still on fresh legs, and there are so many more miles to go!  Around 1.5 miles down, we passed Cedar Ridge and stopped for a quick snack.  We kept moving at a steady pace and quickly arrived at Skeleton Point, which offers amazing views.  

Honestly, bad views are somewhat hard to come by in these parts.  Don’t stop loving the views, but also watch your feet.  The corridor trails are wide and the exposure is minimal, but you are in a canyon.  And, importantly, there are mules.

Deep Thoughts

Around Skeleton Point, we catch our first glimpses of the distant Colorado River below us – a grey line snaking through the landscape.  As we descend, the river becomes closer and clearer, increasing our anticipation of reaching the canyon floor.  The remaining miles to reach the river passed quickly.  The grade here is steep, and much of the descent is down stairs. 

The downhill portion truly is easier and certainly passes quickly, but it can be devastating on the knees.  After just a few hours, we reached the Black Bridge and were crossing the Colorado River.  We enjoyed a short stretch of flat trail leading to the Bright Angel campground, where we had an early lunch.  We’d already hiked more than 7 miles!  

At about noon, the canyon floor was heating up – and it’s always significantly hotter along the river than at the rim – so we convinced ourselves to get started on the long journey up the Bright Angel Trail.  We crossed the Silver Bridge and walked along Riverside Trail until reaching the River Resthouse. 

At this point, the gentle flatter trail along the river was behind us, and we were looking up at the first set of switchbacks.  This is the Bright Angel Trail – only 7.8 miles to the rim.

The Bright Angel Trail is great, because it’s well-maintained, provides occasional shade, and has at least one water stop.  The Bright Angel Trail is a beast, because it climbs about a mile in altitude over the course of 7.8 miles.  It is unrelenting. 

It is not merely two sets of switchbacks.  It’s 7 miles of switchbacks with a brief break near the middle.  

The first set of switchbacks we tackled without much drama. It was a hot ascent, when not in the shade, and we felt relief to realize the trail had become flat and as a breeze rustled the shady tree branches.  We could drink our last bit of water secure in the knowledge that we’d reached Indian Garden.

What Goes Down…

Indian Garden is a reliable water spot, but it’s also the site of an NPS campground, which meant we were suddenly surrounded by people.  We’d not encountered too many folks once we passed Cedar Ridge, so the atmosphere here felt convivial as we relaxed for a few minutes and enjoyed the shade.

Onward!  We pushed further along the trail for about another half mile and ran into the second stage of switchbacks.  The sight of it was disconcerting to me, to say the least.  Four more miles remained, all distinctly uphill with no end in sight. 

Here, my friends saved me.  Did I mention they’re awesome? Because they are. He offered to carry my hip pack, which was an immense relief, and stuck with me despite my slowness.  I was most certainly the dead weight on this journey, and I cannot fully express my appreciation to my friends for sticking with me and providing quiet support and a shocking amount of patience.

Because I was so slow, we were running out of daylight – and this was a huge cause of anxiety and guilt for me.  I can’t really say how many times I contemplated the cost of an NPS rescue!  An NPS ranger stopped to chat on his way into the canyon, and he actually seemed unconcerned with our status.  In fact, he seemed convinced that even without a light, we’d be fine with the moonlight given the clear skies.  It was a very reassuring conversation on the last leg of our ascent.

And so we hiked.  One or two switchbacks at a time, until I needed to rest again.  To the 3-mile Resthouse.  To the 1.5-mile Resthouse as the sun was setting.  The last mile (or more… probably more) was finished in the dark.  And when we looked down behind us, unable to see the canyon in the dark, we could see a long line of bobbing lights stretching down to Indian Garden.  I might have been the slowest hiker in the canyon that day, but I certainly wasn’t the last.

And finally, at about 8pm, we had successfully met the challenge of hiking into, and out of, the Grand Canyon! 

Lessons Learned:

• Be aware of your physical limitations and train for an endurance hike.  This is not a sprint.  Mentally prepare to hike all day, even though you might accomplish it much more quickly.
• Don’t carry too much – you’ll feel that extra weight when you’re packing it uphill!
• Don’t assume you’ll be done before dark – pack a light/lamp just in case you have a slow friend who shouldn’t be doing this type of thing in the first place.  

Lagniappe:

Please, be kind to your fellow hikers.  FOLLOW TRAIL ETIQUETTE.  Most importantly:  Give right-of-way to uphill hikers.  You will appreciate this when you’re the one hiking up! 

Even if you don’t do this “day hike”, absolutely go down to Ooh Aah Point on the South Kaibab and watch the first rays of the sun light up the canyon.  It is worth the effort.

The need to have an appropriate fitness level, or to train adequately, for this hike can’t be stressed enough! Despite being keenly aware that it is not something I should have been attempting at the time, I’m still proud of myself for completing this hike.