An Amazon Ecolodge Experience at Rio Cristalino

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Brazil is a great wildlife destination.  But it’s also a huge country with an overwhelming number of possible birding destinations – from coastal Atlantic forests and cerrado to cloud forests and the Pantanal.  But despite all the options, it’s almost impossible to skip the rain forests of the Amazon River, especially when the itinerary includes a comfortable Amazon ecolodge like Cristalino Jungle Lodge.

My trip to Brazil was a packaged tour with Rockjumper Birding Tours.  I spent ten days traveling through the Pantanal and the cerrado habitats north of Cuiaba.  But they also offered an option to extend the tour, adding a 4-night/5-day excursion to the Amazon.  So although my stay was part of a larger birding tour package, but anyone could independently book a stay at Cristalino Jungle Lodge.  Like most (similarly remote) Amazon ecolodges, stays will include transportation, full board, and at least some of the offered activities.

On the River

The airport in Alta Floresta is a tiny affair, basically a single large room where a crowd of people impatiently wait to retrieve their luggage.  But highlighted on the wall is a large photographic display of birds, which is a reassuring sign that we’ve come to the right place!  And, more importantly, it is an indication of how important the bird life here is to local tourism.

I’m not sure if the birds win in the prime-time economic battle raging in Brazil and through the rain forests of South America (i.e., conservation vs. cattle production).  Optimism is difficult after years of new reports about raging wildfires (exacerbated by deforestation and agricultural interests).  But it’s safe to say I am, and will always remain, on Team Bird.  Join us, we have macaws.

The lodge provides a one-hour shuttle from the airport, through landscapes that aren’t terribly notable aside from the occasional nice bird.  And nice birds are, of course, what we came for.  This is not an hour of city traffic, though.  We’re driving through back country until the road ends, and down a few steps there are boats waiting to finish the journey.

I feel like I’m at the lodge as soon as I step on a boat.  Even a slow journey down the river, watching for birds and other wildlife, seems filled with potential.  And, as it turned out, our boat journey was an eventful one: neotropical otters swimming along the banks, fancy razor-billed curassow standing by the water’s edge, and the most adorable tapir trying to enjoy its bath.

We didn’t chase the tapir away or anything dramatic, of course.  Birding and wildlife tours try to maintain ethical distances to reduce disturbance.  But if I were trying to have a relaxing bath and a boatful of people passed by, I might appreciate them moving along without taking so many photos, thanks so much.

Eventually we reached the dock of our lodge – what should have been a 30 minute ride taking a bit longer, because birders tend to slow things down.  It’s just how we operate.

Perhaps being on the water just always feel like an adventure, or maybe I just enjoy the reduced chances of being attacked by biting insects.  Whatever the reason, being boated to a destination will always seem like a bonus adventure, an extra amenity.

And it certainly trumps being dumped off at a hotel by a busy shuttle van.  This is just a fact!

Hit the Trails

Once at the lodge, we have an additional four days to do whatever we like.  In our case, that means a lot of birding…

Heading to a full-board eco-lodge is a bit different with a birding tour.  We travel with a group guide, but the lodge also provides a guide for any included activities.  So on this particular part of our itinerary, we often had two guides.  The benefit, though, is pretty obvious – two guides is always better than one!  When we had to split the group into separate boats, each boat could always have a guide.

We explored a number of trails nearby, and several would require a quick boat trip to access the trailhead.  One trailhead led to a canopy tower that was a bit quiet but gave distant views of a several new species.  This canopy tower was tall, which provides an unobstructed view of the forest but also puts you well above the trees. Towers like this are a good opportunity to see birds and wildlife, although close shots (for photographers) are less likely when the platform is so far from the trees.  But does it matter?  Toucans, cotingas, araçari, and tanagers – distant or not, there are some great birds to spot up here!

And boating to a further location led us to a site where I got an (unsatisfactory) first look at an umbrellabird!  One of the more memorable experiences of our stay was our return to the lodge, because we were boating in the dark as rain threatened.  Passengers were given ponchos to hide under, and it turned out that it wasn’t to stay dry.  Oh no, it was to protect us from the clouds of insects we’d encounter along the way.  It was… somewhat disturbing, honestly, but I’m really thankful for those ponchos!

A few trails are accessed directly from the grounds, even just behind the main hall.  They provided good early morning birding before breakfast, no boat ride required  There’s even a canopy tower in this area, but the better birding were on the trails nearby, which produced a good number of antbirds and their allies.

Antbirds, antwrens, antshrikes… no kidding, the birds in South America are eating loads of ants.  Many of them bit me, including army ants.  So maybe I’m still bitter (I am), but I really think all these birds could be doing a better job of maintaining the place.  Get it together, antbirds!

BirdGeeking Out

One afternoon, we chose to visit a bird blind.  This is probably not a typical activity for the average visitor, but one that holds appeal for the most avid birders:  a quest for the rare and elusive ground cuckoo.

For once, I am being utterly serious when referring to something “rare and elusive“.  Boy, these ground cuckoos are the stuff of South American birdy legend, from what I can tell.  And this one is the scaled ground-cuckoo.  It might be a species endemic to the Tapajos River (the tributary of the Amazon where Cristalino is situated).  Or it might be a subspecies of the rufous-vented ground cuckoo.

Whichever it is, it is certainly not a bird I’d seen before, so let’s just call the great genetics debate an entirely moot point.  Birders want to see ground cuckoos!  So the four most enthusiastic of our group went to spend hours sitting at a bird blind.  Just waiting.

And the waiting is done quietly.  With as little movement as possible.  No swatting at flies, no reacting to mosquitos.  Channel your inner boulder, folks.  No one wants to be that guy, the insufferable twit who scared off one of the most eagerly anticipated birds in South America.

The ground cuckoos often follow swarms of army ants (or other disruptive foragers, like peccaries) through the understory, so their appearance is based upon the movement of the ants.  It is not something that can be well-predicted.  Dedication and repeated attempts will probably help the odds of success.

And so we waited, hoping to hear the approach of a pair of foraging ground cuckoos, as the light dwindled.

And finally, we gave up.  After seeing a few pretty cool birds at the feeders but exactly zero ground cuckoos.  Perhaps not the desired result, but it was certainly an “authentic” birding experience!

The Lodge

Cristalino Jungle Lodge provides comfortable rooms, nice facilities, and a private preserve for exploring the forests.

There is a primary facility complex that includes the dining room.  There are also small staff offices, as well as plenty of outdoor seating and a meeting space with recessed seating.  They’ve kept the atmosphere of the natural environment, but nothing seems “rustic”.  Everything is clean and comfortable.  And there’s plenty of lighting where it’s needed but none where it’s excessive.

The dining hall here is really the best part of a stay at Cristalino Jungle Lodge.  The food is quite good.  The cocktails, if you partake, are great.  They provide a nice selection of breakfast options.  And Brazil or not, an aversion to beef is not problematic here.  The dinner buffets offered a rotating selection of options (including desserts) that generally kept everyone content, if not overfed.

Also, they will serve fresh fruit juice upon request, made to taste.  Full disclosure: I asked for passionfruit juice every day.  Fuller disclosure:  And a caipirinha most nights.  The juice is included, the cocktails are an additional cost.  Both are worth it.

The Rooms

Sleeping quarters are found in separate buildings just a short walk from the main hall.  The superior rooms are generous.  Everything feels new.  The bathrooms are large and include a great shower.  The sleeping areas feel large enough, even with a twin sleeping configuration.  The ceilings are high and there is plenty of light, helping the space seem larger.  Of the five lodges visited in Brazil, these rooms seemed average to large when only considering size.  However, the bathrooms here were easily best of them all and the room itself certainly felt more upscale.

Oh, and there’s a floating dock. It provides access to the river or a quiet place to relax by the water.  Various chairs are provided for anyone wanting the company of a good book, such as Birds of Brazil.

The Greatest Amenity:  Naturalist Guides

The services of a naturalist guide are provided by the lodge for each activity.  This is what makes a stay at a full-service ecolodge really special.  I might love a nice bed and fancy shower, but there would not be a facility here at all if not for the pristine wilderness surrounding it.  The guides transform that wilderness from “nice hotel grounds” to an educational – and possibly inspirational – experience.

Because many people visit these ecolodges independently, the provided lodge guide is an excellent resource.  The guides at the ecolodge have often worked there for years and are familiar with the local fauna, flora, and the best places to find them.  They’re trained naturalists,  and their knowledge usually includes all flora and fauna.  You needn’t exclusively focus on birds!

The lodge guides can provide hikes on a variety of trails.  Naturalist-guided hikes are available to all guests, as are the canopy towers, and there’s even the chance to add canoeing activities during a stay at Cristalino.  And if you have special interests (e.g., butterflies, photographys), an ecolodge might be able to provide a guide most suited to those pursuits if arranged in advance.

Getting There

To visit the Cristalino Jungle Lodge, you’ll need to schedule a domestic flight to Alta Floresta.  Blue airlines provides service to Alta Floresta in Brazil.  Some more “accessible” ecolodge options might exist, particularly in larger cities (with more flights) like Manaus.  Not all will provide the same natural, remote atmosphere and non-touristic experience, though!

A trip to an ecolodge in the Amazon River basin of Brazil will likely require a domestic flight once in Brazil, regardless of the specific lodge visited. The Lodge provides transportation directly from the airport, including a van shuttle to the river and then small motorized boats to finish the trip.  Return shuttles to the Alta Floresta airport are also provided.  The total time of the shuttle service should be about 90 minutes, each way.

And that’s the beauty of most of these remote ecolodges.  Transportation to and from the facility is often arranged for you and included in the price of your stay.  No language barriers to deter you.  No logistics to sort out.  They’ve got you covered.

Beyond Cristalino

The Amazon flows across the continent from the Andes to the east coast of Brazil.  Tributaries extending north and south of the mainstem Amazon to expand the area of the basin.  There are fantastic ecolodges to be found in the Amazon basin, so it’s worth looking into Amazon options even if your South American itinerary doesn’t include Brazil.  For example, the Napo Wildlife Center in Yasuní National Park is an excellent option for anyone traveling to Ecuador.  Plus, it is owned and operated by a local, indigenous Quechua community.

Reality Bites

Everyone loves to talk about nature as if everything isn’t out to bite/sting you.  It’s a lie.  The reality of the situation is there are billion ants in Brazil, and they’re all jerks.  Avoid those guys.

And mosquitos abound, with the potential to bring zika virus, chikungunya, malaria, dengue fever, or yellow fever.  Seems a bit excessive, honestly.  Avoid them – you can use sprays, wear long clothing when appropriate, and even treat your clothes.  Many lodges will provide netting where mosquitos are more problematic.

And always check with travel health/CDC guidance for any medical precautions necessary to make sure you have a great trip to the tropics!

Now Relax, You’re on Vacation

What should you remember about the Amazon?  Sometimes there’s high water, sometimes there’s low water.  Sometimes you’re closer to the arboreal critters, and other times you’ll be able to hike more.  There will be bugs, some that want to bite you.  You’ll likely be warm and experience periods of rain, because “rain forest” is not a misnomer.

What should you remember about Brazil?  There’s a visa requirement to apply (and pay) for.  They speak Portuguese, so your Spanish won’t get you as far as you might expect!  But it won’t matter, because your guides and pretty much everyone in tourism will be bilingual (to some degree, many fluent in English).  So practice the basics, as we all should… but don’t panic.  Just like the transportation, everything is pretty much arranged to make your stay as comfortable and stress-free as possible.

I know ecolodges might occur anywhere, but for some reason they seem more memorable in the Amazon, in the heart of a South American rain forest.  Slow boat rides taking you to comfortable lodges with everything you need (but not a ton that you don’t).  Many activities are included in a stay, emphasizing the wildlife and flora of the area, but any itinerary can be adapted based on interests and energy.  And nap schedule.  Because napping is absolutely a glorious activity!