Four Pass Loop: Backpacking in the Maroon Bells Wilderness

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Four Pass Loop is a 27-mile path encircling the Maroon Bells as it snakes over four mountain passes. It is an exploration of the Maroon Bells-Snowmass Wilderness Area – filled with wildflowers, beautiful views, and the occasional mountain goat. We backpacked the loop over three challenging, but rewarding, days.

Why Four Pass Loop?

Colorado is something of a wilderness wonderland, isn’t it? There are 58 different “14ers” and more than 40 national wilderness areas! Some are more popular and/or accessible from cities. There are varying levels of seclusion and trail difficulty. If you’re going to plan an outdoor adventure in Colorado, the options can be overwhelming.

We were going to Colorado for a family vacation in 2017. We knew we wanted a suitable activity for a few days together, so we were looking for a good couples adventure. It seemed like most resources point to the big mountain challenges, like the 14ers, and maybe the National Parks.

But then, one fateful afternoon, we shared our bout of indecision with a friend who was also familiar with Colorado. She told us she’d finally be hiking Four Pass Loop in late summer.  As soon as I heard the enthusiasm in her voice, I knew my future had been determined.  My partner reacted with interest as she described the 3-4 day, 30ish miles of hiking over four mountain passes.

And I cringed internally.  Obviously, we would also be hiking Four Pass Loop.

I know, the “why” should be a compelling section about the awe-inspiring scenery and jaw-dropping beauty of the serene Colorado mountains during the height of their wildflower glory. In fact, that sentence is very accurate, and those considerations certainly influenced our decision. But the duration perfectly fit our schedule. And the trail access was reasonably close to our base in Buena Vista. Since our home base was chosen before our adventure, Four Pass Loop turned out to be the perfect choice!

If “a hike over four mountain passes” can be included in the definition of “perfect”, anyway.

The Details

Location:  Maroon Bells – Snowmass Wilderness Area

Closest City:  Aspen (access from Maroon Bells Scenic Area) or Crested Butte

Distance: 27ish miles

The Passes (clockwise route): Although it’s commonly called “Four Pass Loop”, the path is created by segments of several trails. But refer to this Forest Service guide for greater detail and a thorough technical description.

• West Maroon Pass (via West Maroon Trail): 12,500’
• Frigid Air Pass (via Frigid Air Pass Trail): 12,415’
• Trail Rider (12,420’
• Buckskin (via Maroon-Snowmass Trail):12,500’

Preparation is Key

As low-altitude Georgia residents, we weren’t entirely confident in our abilities to hop over to Colorado and start climbing mountain passes. Luckily, we had months to prepare ourselves.

So we started fitness training by filling our backpacks full of bricks. I’m not making this up. First, we walked through our neighborhood multiple times each week wearing backpacks. Backpacks full of bricks, yes.

Once we’d convinced every neighbor that we were utterly bonkers, we completed a couple test hikes in Georgia and South Carolina. Each time we hiked multiple miles, packs loaded with bricks and ready to go.

I’m not sure if this the best way to prepare for the backpacking experience. After all, the bricks weren’t exactly packed as well as a pack would be – meaning the weight was not distributed well at all! But it still turned out to be effective, nonetheless. We were ready for more weight than we needed to carry, at the very least.

We bought need hiking shoes, camp food, trekking poles, and backpacks. And… trowels. For… ya know, leaving no trace. We’d never been backpacking before, so we bought light versions of all the things. Basically, we bought new everything, including bear-proof food storage! We were aware of the threat of bears and even porcupines in the wilderness area, so we had prepared for keeping our gear protected.

Off on an Adventure!

Day 1 – Maroon and Frigid Air Passes

We started our hike early – leaving Sierra Vista in the dark to arrive at the Maroon Bells Scenic Area while parking was still available. The entry trail actually led us to unintended destinations and self-doubt. We followed people who seemed to be confidently heading down the trail, when we should have been following the actual trail. Indeed, we ended up taking an unexpected detour less than an hour into our journey!

That bodes well, doesn’t it?

Once we were back on the right path, we followed the rocky trail to Crater Lake, where the “loop” really begins.

West Maroon Trail had a couple stream crossings and patches of snow. The trail doesn’t climb much initially, so the trail got pretty hot before we started hiking up to higher elevation. The final Maroon Pass ascent has some long switchbacks, a smooth path in a red/brown landscape. It isn’t too difficult and is a good primer for the subsequent passes. The real treat for Maroon Pass is reaching the top and seeing Hasley Basin on the other side. It is a beautiful scene, filled with flower-dotted meadows.

We tried to descend quickly. Rain was coming in. Soon we found the Frigid Air Pass Trail and took a right to start another ascent. We climbed steadily – this altitude shift wasn’t nearly as great as Maroon Pass, but goodness Frigid Air is a steep ascent at the end! In the rain, it became muddy and earned the “frigid” descriptor as the precipitation began to freeze. My hiking poles became climbing poles as I used them to pull myself up the last few meters of the slick, steep path.

We got to the top in a mix of hail and rain, and we soon saw our next descent. It was covered in large patches of snow. My partner wasn’t too troubled by the trail condition, but I consistently found myself sliding and spending many moments on my rear. I’m not the most graceful critter.

Once we finally found the tree line and existing campsites, we took the first available spot. After two mountain passes and 12ish miles, we were ready to call it a day.

Day 2 – Fravert Basin and Trail Rider Pass

We started the day with coffee. The absolute best part of camp food is the coffee. There, I said it.

And then, we packed up camp and began descending into the Fravert Basin, which rivaled Hasley Basin in pretty views and wildflowers but added spruce forests and waterfalls to the mix.

Eventually, we found the stream crossing at the north fork of the Crystal River and headed up toward Trail Rider.  There were couple more river crossings as we ascended through the forest, then the ascent just continues. For ages and ages.

Eventually, we reached a crest where the view opens to a small lake, beautiful fields of flowers, and more dramatic mountain views. This was also the point where we saw a man… answering the call of nature? So that was weird, especially considering just how few people we really saw each day!

And then, the final push: an uphill slog to the top of Trail Rider Pass, which rewards with views of Snowmass lake far below. 

Playing in the Snow

After much of the descent from Trail Rider Pass, we came to an area of scree covered by patches of snow. It wasn’t a huge distance.  We crossed some bits of snow before resting on some boulders.

My partner disappeared for a few minutes, soon returning to ask for my pack.  It wasn’t entirely clear to me what he was doing or why. Then, I stood and saw what was in front of us: a small path of dirty footsteps marring a steep slope of snow, which ended in a sheer drop far below us. 

I am not sure-footed. Even the sight of snow causes me to slip and fall. I find holes in paths even when following a line of people. I am the opposite of grace.

At this point, I became utterly convinced that this hike would result in my sudden, tragic death.

Luckily, the man in my life is part-mountain goat.  He tried to convince me I wasn’t going to die. Unsuccessful. He then demonstrated how I could safely cross, while he also carried my pack across the snow for me.  Because I couldn’t sit on the scree until the snow melted, I followed him. I proceeded slowly, leaning over to brace myself against the snow.  Also, I seriously considered crawling as a legitimate option.

I was overwhelmed with relief once I stood on flat, stable ground again. And my patient mountain goat was there to console me while I had a little bit of a meltdown.  Whew.

At this point, It was pretty late in the day. We suspected that a detour down to Snowmass Lake would lead us to only claimed campsites and disappointment, so we continued following Four Pass Loop toward the final ascent.  It was another mile before we found empty campsites.  The area was a haven for mosquitos, but the views of meadows and beavers lodges were lovely.  We had dinner on a log footbridge over a beautiful stream before calling it a night.

Day 3 – Buckskin Pass

Our third and final day was my favorite ascent in the route. As we began the day, a couple friendly hikers almost passed by but then started to chat with us as if they recognized us. Because they’d watched our snow crossing the night before from the lake below us!  Apparently it was riveting entertainment, so I suppose that’s a service I provide.  You’re welcome. 

The ascent up Buckskin Pass was the most similar to my expectations of a mountain hike– a long set of regular switchbacks leading to the final crest.  We were lucky to have beautiful weather, and I saw my first ptarmigan before the final ascent.  Once we reached the top, we again found spectacular mountain views.

That’s the oddest part. The ascents are so terribly exhausting. Feet become tired. Legs feel like jelly. The air becomes thin, and it’s hard to breathe. And as soon as the views at the top open in front of you, the discomfort disappears. It is, legitimately, awesome. Those views inspire awe, a deep appreciation of intense beauty that you are genuinely grateful to witness. And you’re ready to go again, if only to see if the next pass could possibly offer anything as majestic.

Once we left the beautiful views behind, we headed down the trail, toward the forests and creeks again. I felt as though the final descent would never end.  I saw a few new birds to break up the agonizing, prolonged anticipation of reaching Crater Lake yet again.  Luckily we didn’t get lost on the entrance trail this time, though! We finally made it back to the Scenic Area feeling tired, gritty, and pretty darned accomplished.

Lagniappe:

• Check out the U.S. Forest Service’s White River National Forest/Maroon Bells Scenic Area information for all requirements if you’re planning to do this hike!
• Look for important information about:
  • Parking access/shuttles
  • Bear-proofing
  • Wilderness backcountry permits
  • Campsites and campfire restrictions
• To my great disappointment, I walked away from this hike without once seeing (or even hearing) a porcupine. I was so excited about the possibility of encountering porcupines – this scourge of the wilderness, these marauders of sweaty gear. Apparently they can be quite a pain, but we had no notable wildlife encounters.
• The showers at the Aspen Recreation Center aren’t the cheapest, but they feel great after three days on the trail.  You can take your own towel to avoid an extra cost.  And you’ll feel human again!